Skin needling

Skin needling - also called micro-needling or collagen induction therapy - uses a medical-grade device with very fine needles to create controlled microscopic punctures in the skin.

Those tiny injuries trigger the skin's normal wound-healing response, which includes laying down new collagen and elastin. Collagen production continues for months afterwards - in some cases up to twelve - which is why results build gradually rather than appearing the next day.

It is a minimally invasive procedure, not a non-invasive one: it breaks the skin, and that is how it works.

Factor 4

Needling is often combined with Factor 4, an autologous serum prepared from your own blood. A blood sample is collected and processed through a patented system that separates and concentrates growth factors and cytokines from the plasma, then filters the result to produce a concentrated serum, which is applied during needling so it reaches the deeper layers through the micro-channels.

Because the serum comes from your own blood, there is no question of rejection or allergy to a foreign substance. See Factor 4.

What it is used for

Acne scars, particularly rolling and shallow boxcar scars
Other depressed scars and stretch marks
Uneven skin texture
Fine lines and early wrinkles
Enlarged pores
Pigmentation, including melasma in selected cases
Sun damage and general skin quality
Dry skin and dullness
The neck and decolletage as well as the face

Why some people choose needling over laser

Needling works mechanically rather than by targeting melanin, so it does not carry the same risk of heat-related pigment change. That makes it a reasonable option for people with darker skin types, for whom light-based resurfacing carries a higher risk of post-inflammatory pigmentation.

It is not risk-free in darker skin - any inflammation can trigger pigment - but the risk profile is different, and that difference matters when choosing.

Who it does not suit

Despite what is often claimed, skin needling is not suitable for everyone. It is generally avoided where there is:

Active eczema, psoriasis or dermatitis in the treatment area
An open wound, active infection or active cold sore
Active inflammatory acne in the area being treated
A history of keloid scarring
A bleeding disorder or current blood-thinning medication
Pregnancy
Recent use of oral acne medication
Recent radiotherapy to the area

Tell your practitioner your full history, including everything you take.

Before your treatment

Avoid sun exposure; wear SPF if you are outdoors
No laser, IPL or waxing in the area beforehand
Stop abrasive products, exfoliants and retinoids for at least 48 hours
Tell your practitioner about any antibiotics or other medication
Arrive with clean skin and no make-up

Afterwards

Expect redness and mild irritation, similar to mild sunburn. For gentle treatments this usually settles within a few hours; deeper treatments produce redness for a day or two, and sometimes pinpoint bleeding or bruising at the time.

For the first 48 hours:

No sun exposure, hot showers, saunas or strenuous exercise
Gentle cleanser only, plenty of hydration, and any post-treatment balm provided
No harsh or active skincare in the treated area
No make-up for the first day

Some dryness and light flaking as the skin heals is normal. Do not exfoliate it. Use sunscreen daily once the skin has settled - freshly treated skin is more sun-sensitive.

What results are realistic

Skin needling is a course treatment, typically several sessions spaced four to six weeks apart. Most people notice improved texture and brightness within a few weeks; collagen-driven changes to scarring and lines continue over six to twelve months.

Depressed scarring improves; it does not disappear. Fine lines soften; deep static lines respond less. Results vary with age, skin type, the condition treated and how many sessions are completed - and maintenance sessions are usually needed to hold the result.

Risks

Redness, swelling and pinpoint bleeding after treatment
Bruising
Dryness, flaking and temporary sensitivity
A temporary breakout
Post-inflammatory pigmentation, more likely in darker skin types
Infection, including reactivation of cold sores
Scarring - uncommon, but possible with over-aggressive treatment or in keloid-prone skin
Allergic or irritant reaction to products applied during or after treatment
Incomplete improvement, and the need for further sessions

See risks and complications.

Cost

As at September 2024 and including GST, a skin assessment is $50 and a Cosmetic Doctor consultation is $150. Dermal skin treatments start from $130; needling with Factor 4 costs more than needling alone. Because this is a course, ask for the cost of the full plan. Not covered by Medicare.

Booking

Me Clinic, 4 Burke Road, Malvern East VIC 3145. Phone 1300 852 050 or (03) 9569 3511, or use the online consultation form.

Individual results may vary. Any surgical or invasive procedure carries risks. Before proceeding you should seek a second opinion from an appropriately qualified health practitioner.