Epidermal levelling

Epidermal levelling - also called dermaplaning - uses a specially designed surgical blade, held at an angle and drawn gently across the skin, to remove the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of dead cells) together with the fine vellus hair on the surface.

The result is an immediately smoother surface, a brighter appearance, and better penetration of skincare applied afterwards - there is no longer a layer of dead cells and fine hair in the way.

It is a surface treatment with essentially no downtime.

What it is used for

Dullness and uneven texture
Fine vellus hair on the face (the soft, light "peach fuzz")
Surface build-up of dead skin
Make-up that sits unevenly or catches on fine hair
Preparing the skin before other treatments, and maintaining between them
Superficial pigmentation and fine lines, modestly

The facial hair question

The most common worry about this treatment is whether the hair grows back thicker or darker. It does not.

Vellus hair is cut at the surface rather than removed from the follicle, and cutting a hair does not change the follicle that produces it. What it does change is the tip: an uncut hair tapers to a fine point, while a cut one has a blunt end that can feel coarser for a few days as it grows out. The hair itself is the same thickness and colour it was.

This treatment removes vellus hair. It is not a treatment for terminal hair - the coarser, pigmented hair on the upper lip or chin - which needs a different approach. See facial hair removal.

What to expect

A treatment takes around 30 minutes. There is no anaesthetic and no injection; most people describe it as a light scraping sensation, and many find it more comfortable than microdermabrasion.

Afterwards the skin may look slightly pink for an hour or two and feels notably smooth. Make-up can be applied the same day.

For 48 hours: no sun exposure, no exfoliating actives or retinoids, no saunas or hot showers. Use sunscreen daily - freshly levelled skin has lost its outer protective layer and is more sun-sensitive.

Because the outer layer renews continuously, the effect lasts around three to four weeks, and the treatment is usually repeated on that cycle.

Who it does not suit

Active inflammatory or cystic acne in the area
Active eczema, psoriasis or dermatitis
Open wounds, active cold sores or skin infection
Raised lesions or moles in the treatment path - these are worked around, not over
Recent sunburn
Recent use of oral acne medication
Very thin or fragile skin

It is generally well tolerated across skin types, because it does not use heat or light.

What results are realistic

Immediately smoother, brighter skin with less visible fine hair, and make-up that sits better. That result is real and reliable, and it is also temporary - three to four weeks is typical.

Epidermal levelling does not treat scarring, deep pigmentation, deep lines or laxity, and it does not stimulate collagen the way needling and laser do. It is an excellent surface treatment and nothing more than that. Individual results vary.

Risks

Redness for a short period after treatment
Dryness or tightness
Small nicks or grazes, uncommon with proper technique
Temporary increased sensitivity, including to skincare that is normally tolerated
A temporary breakout
Infection, uncommon
Post-inflammatory pigmentation, more likely in darker skin types
Aggravation of active acne, rosacea or dermatitis
Increased sun sensitivity afterwards

See risks and complications.

Cost

As at September 2024 and including GST, a skin assessment is $50. Dermal skin treatments start from $130. Not covered by Medicare.

Booking

Me Clinic, 4 Burke Road, Malvern East VIC 3145. Phone 1300 852 050 or (03) 9569 3511, or use the online consultation form.

Individual results may vary. Any surgical or invasive procedure carries risks. Before proceeding you should seek a second opinion from an appropriately qualified health practitioner.