Cosmetic skin peels

A skin peel applies a chemical solution to the skin in a controlled way. The solution removes layers of dead and damaged cells and prompts the skin to replace them, which improves texture, tone and superficial pigmentation and can soften fine lines.

It is a straightforward treatment with a wide range of strengths - and the strength is the thing that matters most, because it determines both what the peel can do and how much downtime it costs you.

Depth is the decision

Depth	Reaches	Used for	Typical downtime
Superficial	The outer layer only	Dullness, congestion, mild texture and tone, maintenance	Redness for hours; light flaking for a few days
Medium	Into the upper dermis	Pigmentation, sun damage, fine lines, shallow scarring	Around a week of visible peeling
Deeper	Further into the dermis	Marked sun damage, deeper lines, significant texture	Longer, with more risk; used selectively

Superficial peels are typically done as a course; deeper peels do more per session and are spaced much further apart.

The acids and what they suit

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) - glycolic, lactic. Water-soluble, work on the surface. Suit dullness, texture and pigmentation.
Beta hydroxy acid (BHA) - salicylic. Oil-soluble, so it penetrates into the pore. Suits oily and congested skin and acne.
Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) - used for medium-depth peels.
Combination formulations - blended for a particular concern.

Which one, and at what strength, is decided after your skin is assessed.

What peels treat

Uneven texture and dullness, pigmentation, sun damage, acne and congestion, superficial acne scarring, enlarged pores, fine lines, and melasma - the last one cautiously, because aggressive peeling can worsen it.

Skin type and suitability

Darker skin types carry a higher risk of post-inflammatory pigmentation from peeling, so peels are chosen and dosed more conservatively - which does not rule them out, and superficial peels are widely used across skin types.

Peels are generally avoided or deferred with active infection or cold sores, open wounds, eczema or dermatitis in the area, recent oral acne medication, pregnancy, recent sun exposure or sunburn, and a history of keloid scarring.

Before and after

Before: stop retinoids and exfoliating actives as advised; no waxing, laser or IPL in the area beforehand; avoid sun and fake tan; tell your practitioner about medications and cold sores.

During: the solution is applied for a set time and then neutralised or allowed to self-neutralise. Expect tingling, warmth or stinging. Most facial peels take 20 to 40 minutes including preparation.

After: redness, tightness, then flaking or peeling starting a day or two later. Most people need about a week to recover from a medium peel; superficial peels are far quicker.

Do not pick or pull peeling skin - this is the most common cause of a mark afterwards
Gentle cleanser and moisturiser only
No sun exposure; daily sunscreen once the skin has settled
No exfoliants, retinoids or actives until your practitioner says so
No hot showers, saunas or strenuous exercise for a day or two

What results are realistic

Superficial peels brighten and smooth, and the effect is cumulative over a course rather than dramatic after one. Medium peels produce a more visible change in pigmentation and texture from a single treatment, at the cost of a week of peeling.

Peels do not remove deep lines, lift sagging skin, or permanently stop pigmentation returning. Maintenance and daily sun protection determine whether a result holds. Individual results vary.

Risks

Redness, stinging, tightness and peeling - expected, but more than anticipated for some
Changes in pigmentation, darker or lighter, which can persist - more likely in darker skin types
Worsening of melasma with over-aggressive peeling
Blistering and chemical burn
Scarring - uncommon, and mainly with deeper peels
Infection, including reactivation of cold sores
Prolonged redness
Allergic or irritant reaction
Increased sun sensitivity afterwards
Incomplete improvement

See risks and complications.

Cost

As at September 2024 and including GST, a skin assessment is $50. Dermal skin treatments start from $130. Because superficial peels are done as a course, ask for the cost of the full plan. Not covered by Medicare.

Who performs peels here

Michelle Casey, Paramedical Aesthetician, with over 18 years' experience and more than 25,000 skin treatments performed.

Booking

Me Clinic, 4 Burke Road, Malvern East VIC 3145. Phone 1300 852 050 or (03) 9569 3511, or use the online consultation form.

Individual results may vary. Any surgical or invasive procedure carries risks. Before proceeding you should seek a second opinion from an appropriately qualified health practitioner.