Cosmeceutical skincare

"Cosmeceutical" describes skincare with active ingredients at higher concentrations than most over-the-counter products, formulated to work below the surface rather than only on it.

Worth knowing up front: cosmeceutical is a marketing term, not a regulatory category. In Australia, a product is either a cosmetic or a therapeutic good under TGA regulation; there is no legally defined middle tier. That does not mean these products do nothing - several of the ingredients below have good evidence - but the label itself guarantees nothing. What matters is which active is in the bottle, at what concentration, and whether it suits your skin.

The ingredients that actually have evidence

Retinoids (vitamin A) - the best-evidenced topical for photoageing and acne. Increases cell turnover and stimulates collagen. Takes 3-6 months to show its effect, and commonly causes dryness and irritation in the first weeks. Stronger retinoids are prescription-only.
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) - antioxidant, supports collagen synthesis, helps brighten pigmentation. Unstable, so formulation and packaging matter.
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) - improves barrier function, reduces redness and oil, helps with pigmentation. Well tolerated.
Alpha hydroxy acids - glycolic, lactic. Exfoliate the surface; improve texture and tone.
Salicylic acid (BHA) - oil-soluble, works inside the pore. For congestion and acne.
Hyaluronic acid - a humectant, draws water into the outer layer. Hydrates; does not remodel.
Ceramides - lipids that repair the skin barrier. Essential for dry and sensitive skin.
Peptides - signalling molecules; evidence is more modest than the marketing suggests.
Sunscreen - the single most effective anti-ageing product there is, and the cheapest.

What skincare can and cannot do

It can: improve texture and tone, reduce fine lines, fade pigmentation over months, control acne, repair a damaged barrier, protect against further UV damage, and hold the results of in-clinic treatments.

It cannot: lift sagging skin, remove deep static lines, remove established scars, change pore size permanently, or reverse ageing. Claims that a cream permanently fixes the root cause of a skin problem are not supportable.

Nor is skincare a substitute for assessment. No product should be used to treat a lesion that has not been examined.

Building a routine

Simple and consistent beats elaborate and abandoned.

Morning: gentle cleanser, antioxidant serum (commonly vitamin C), moisturiser, broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen.
Evening: cleanser, active (retinoid or an acid - not both on the same night when starting), moisturiser.

Introduce one active at a time, a few nights a week at first, and build up. Using several strong actives at once is the most common reason people end up with an irritated, compromised barrier - and irritated skin looks worse, not better.

In Australia, daily sunscreen is not the optional last step. It is the step that protects everything else you are paying for.

Sensitive skin

Products free of fragrance and common irritants are easier for reactive skin to tolerate, and our range is selected with that in mind. But no product is non-irritating for everyone: "plant-based", "chemical-free" and "preservative-free" are marketing descriptions, not guarantees of tolerance, and plant extracts are among the more common causes of contact allergy.

If your skin is reactive, patch test, introduce one product at a time, and stop anything that stings persistently.

Timeframes

Hydration and comfort: days
Texture and brightness: 4-6 weeks
Acne control: 6-12 weeks
Pigmentation: 3-6 months
Fine lines and collagen change from retinoids: 6-12 months

Skincare is also maintenance rather than cure - stop, and the skin gradually returns to its previous state. Individual results vary.

Using skincare with clinic treatments

Preparing the skin before treatment and supporting it afterwards improves how well most in-clinic treatments work, and a properly functioning barrier tolerates treatment better.

Some actives must be stopped before peels, laser and needling, and resumed only when your practitioner says so. Follow the specific instructions you are given rather than a general rule from the internet.

Risks

Irritation, redness, stinging, dryness and peeling - common when starting retinoids and acids
Contact allergy or dermatitis, including to natural and plant-derived ingredients
A temporary breakout when starting an active
Increased sun sensitivity with retinoids and acids
Barrier damage from over-use of multiple actives
Post-inflammatory pigmentation from irritation, particularly in darker skin types
Retinoids are not used in pregnancy

Tell your practitioner if you are pregnant, breastfeeding or taking any medication. See risks and complications.

Cost

Products are priced individually. As at September 2024 and including GST, a skin assessment is $50 and a Cosmetic Doctor consultation is $150. Prescription topicals require a doctor's consultation and cannot be named in advertising to the public.

Booking

A consultation matches products to your skin type and concern rather than to a shelf. Me Clinic, 4 Burke Road, Malvern East VIC 3145. Phone 1300 852 050 or (03) 9569 3511, or use the online consultation form. Skincare consultations are provided by Michelle Casey, Paramedical Aesthetician, and our Cosmetic Doctors.

Individual results may vary. Any surgical or invasive procedure carries risks. Before proceeding you should seek a second opinion from an appropriately qualified health practitioner.