Acne treatments

This page covers the treatments we use for acne and what each one does. For the condition itself - how acne forms, what drives it and how a plan is built - see acne.

The reason to read both is that acne treatment fails more often from mismatching than from the treatments being poor. Acne has four components - excess oil, blocked follicles, bacterial overgrowth and inflammation - and a treatment that addresses only one leaves the others running.

Matching treatment to the acne

What you have	What tends to work
Blackheads and whiteheads, no inflammation	Salicylic peels, microdermabrasion, epidermal levelling, topical retinoids
Red inflamed papules and pustules	LED, IPL, photodynamic therapy, prescription medication
Deep nodules and cysts	Prescription medication; cortisone injection for an individual lesion
Oily, congested skin generally	Salicylic peels, appropriate cleanser and actives
Marks left after acne settles	Usually pigmentation, not scarring - sun protection and pigment treatment
Pitted or raised scarring	Acne scar treatment - after the acne is controlled

The treatments

Chemical peels

Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, so it penetrates into the pore and clears the plug that starts the whole process. Usually the most useful in-clinic treatment for congestion, done as a course.

LED therapy (Healite II)

Blue light is absorbed by porphyrins produced by acne bacteria; near-infrared reduces inflammation. Comfortable, no downtime, typically twice weekly over four weeks.

IPL and Laser Genesis

For inflammatory acne and the redness that accompanies and follows it. See laser treatments.

Photodynamic therapy

A photosensitising agent is applied and activated by light, targeting the oil glands and the bacteria in them. Used for more stubborn inflammatory acne.

Cortisone injections

For an individual inflamed cyst. Settles pain and swelling within a day or two, and a cyst that resolves quickly is less likely to scar. Not a treatment for acne as a whole.

Microdermabrasion and epidermal levelling

Surface exfoliation for congestion - used on comedonal acne, and avoided on actively inflamed or cystic skin, where abrasion makes things worse.

Cosmeceutical skincare

Retinoids, appropriate cleansers, niacinamide. The daily part of the plan, and the part that determines whether in-clinic sessions hold.

Prescription medication

Moderate to severe acne generally needs it. These are prescription-only medicines requiring a doctor's consultation, and Australian law prevents us naming or promoting them in advertising to the public. Your doctor will explain what is proposed, the monitoring involved, and the risks.

Mineral make-up

Non-comedogenic cover while treatment takes effect - so you are not choosing between visible acne and a foundation that worsens it.

Sequencing, which matters

Control the active acne first. Treating scars while new lesions are forming means new scars form during the course.
Give it 6 to 12 weeks before judging any regimen. Some cause an initial flare.
Then treat the scarring, once things are settled.
Maintain. Acne is controlled rather than cured; stopping usually means relapse.

If you have recently taken oral acne medication, say so - resurfacing treatments are deferred for a period afterwards because of healing risk.

What results are realistic

Most acne can be well controlled with the right combination. In-clinic treatments work best alongside a proper daily regimen rather than instead of one.

Expect gradual improvement over months, not weeks, and expect maintenance afterwards. Individual results vary with the type and severity of acne, hormonal factors, skin type and consistency.

Risks

Dryness, peeling, redness and irritation
An initial flare before improvement
Post-inflammatory pigmentation, more likely in darker skin types
Blistering or burns from light-based treatment
Skin thinning, dimpling or pigment loss at a cortisone injection site
Infection
Increased sun sensitivity
Incomplete response, and relapse when treatment stops
Prescription medications carry their own risks, discussed at consultation

Tell your practitioner if you are pregnant, breastfeeding or planning a pregnancy - several acne treatments are unsafe in pregnancy. See risks and complications.

Cost

As at September 2024 and including GST, a skin assessment is $50 and a Cosmetic Doctor consultation is $150. Dermal skin treatments start from $130. Ask for the cost of the whole plan. Medical management by a doctor may attract a Medicare rebate; in-clinic cosmetic treatments do not.

Booking

Me Clinic, 4 Burke Road, Malvern East VIC 3145. Phone 1300 852 050 or (03) 9569 3511, or use the online consultation form.

Individual results may vary. Any surgical or invasive procedure carries risks. Before proceeding you should seek a second opinion from an appropriately qualified health practitioner.