Open pores

Pores are the openings of hair follicles. Each follicle contains a hair shaft and an oil (sebaceous) gland, and the size of the opening is largely determined by the size of the gland and shaft it has to accommodate.

They occur all over the body but are most noticeable on the face - particularly the nose, cheeks and forehead - and on the neck.

Start here: pores do not open and close

This is the most useful thing on the page. Pores have no muscle. They cannot be opened by steam or closed by cold water, and no product shrinks them permanently.

What treatment can genuinely do is make pores less visible - by clearing the debris that stretches and darkens them, by reducing oil production, and by improving the firmness of the skin around them. That is a real and worthwhile change. It is not the same as removing them.

Anyone selling pore "closing" or "shrinking" is describing something that does not happen.

What makes pores look larger

Genetics - the single biggest factor, and not modifiable. Oily skin types have larger sebaceous glands and therefore larger pore openings.
Excess oil production, influenced by hormones
Blockage - a plug of dead skin and oil stretches the opening. Oxidised plugs look dark, which is what a blackhead is.
Sun damage - degrades the collagen that holds the pore wall taut, so openings widen. A major and under-recognised contributor.
Age - loss of collagen and elasticity has the same effect
Acne and repeated inflammation, which permanently stretches openings
Occlusive products - heavy cosmetics, some sunscreens, hair products along the hairline
Squeezing and picking, which stretches and inflames the opening

Treatments

Chemical peels - salicylic acid peels in particular are oil-soluble, so they clear the inside of the pore
Microdermabrasion and epidermal levelling - physical removal of surface build-up
Skin needling - stimulates collagen around the pore, tightening the surrounding skin
Laser resurfacing - fractional and ablative lasers improve texture and pore appearance
Cosmeceutical skincare - retinoids normalise cell turnover and reduce blockage; niacinamide helps with oil and appearance. Some effective topicals are prescription-only and need a doctor's consultation.
Daily sun protection - because further collagen loss widens pores
Mineral make-up - non-comedogenic cover

Untreated blockage feeds acne, so pore care and acne management overlap considerably.

What does not help

Steaming to "open" and cold water to "close" - pores do not move
Pore strips - they remove surface plugs and do nothing about the size of the opening; used often, they irritate
Squeezing - stretches the pore and risks scarring
Harsh scrubs and stripping cleansers - the skin compensates by producing more oil
Heavy foundation used to disguise pores, which accumulates in them

What results are realistic

A course of appropriate treatment plus a consistent skincare routine generally makes pores noticeably less conspicuous - cleaner, less shadowed, with smoother surrounding skin.

Pores remain. They will look larger again if treatment and skincare stop, because oil production and genetics have not changed. Maintenance is the model here. Individual results vary.

Risks

Redness, dryness, peeling and irritation
A temporary flare of breakouts as blockages clear
Changes in pigmentation after peels or laser, more likely in darker skin types
Blistering or burns from energy-based treatment
Scarring, uncommon
Infection
Increased sun sensitivity after treatment
Incomplete improvement

See risks and complications.

Cost

As at September 2024 and including GST, a skin assessment is $50 and a Cosmetic Doctor consultation is $150. Dermal skin treatments start from $130. A course is quoted after assessment. Not covered by Medicare.

Booking

Me Clinic, 4 Burke Road, Malvern East VIC 3145. Phone 1300 852 050 or (03) 9569 3511, or use the online consultation form.

Individual results may vary. Any surgical or invasive procedure carries risks. Before proceeding you should seek a second opinion from an appropriately qualified health practitioner.