Epidermal levelling

Epidermal levelling - also called dermaplaning - is a manual exfoliation treatment. A sterile surgical blade is drawn across the skin at a shallow angle, removing the outermost layer of dead skin cells (the stratum corneum) along with the fine downy hair known as vellus hair.

It is non-invasive, requires no anaesthetic, and has essentially no downtime.

What it does

• Removes fine facial hair. Vellus hair catches light and can make skin look dull or textured. Removing it is the main reason most people ask for the treatment.
• Exfoliates. Removing the dead cell layer leaves the skin surface smoother and can improve how skin reflects light.
• Improves product absorption. Serums and actives applied afterwards penetrate more readily with the dead cell layer removed - which is also why what is applied afterwards should be chosen carefully.
• Smooths makeup application. Foundation sits differently on skin without vellus hair.

Unlike laser hair reduction, it works regardless of hair colour, because it is mechanical rather than light-based. It is the option for fine, light-coloured facial hair that laser cannot treat.

Does hair grow back thicker?

No. This is the most common question about the treatment, and the answer is straightforward: cutting a hair does not change the follicle that produces it, so it does not change the hair's colour, thickness or growth rate.

What does change is how the regrowing hair feels. A hair that has never been cut has a naturally tapered tip; a cut hair has a blunt end, which feels coarser to the touch for a short period as it grows out. The hair itself is identical.

Regrowth typically becomes noticeable within a few weeks, which is why the treatment is repeated rather than permanent. It does not reduce hair over time.

What to expect

The skin is cleansed and dried. A sterile blade is drawn across the skin in short strokes at a shallow angle, section by section. The treatment takes around 30 minutes and is generally painless - most people describe it as a light scraping sensation.

Afterwards the skin may be slightly pink for a short time. Most people return to normal activities immediately, though the skin is temporarily more exposed and sensitive.

Who it suits - and who it does not

Generally suitable: people with fine facial hair they want removed, dull or rough skin texture, or who want better product penetration or makeup application. It is one of the few exfoliating treatments appropriate during pregnancy, since no chemicals or energy devices are involved - though your practitioner should confirm this in your circumstances.

Generally not suitable:

• Active inflammatory or cystic acne - passing a blade over inflamed lesions can worsen them and spread bacteria
• Active cold sores, infection or open skin in the area
• Eczema, psoriasis, dermatitis or rosacea flaring in the treatment area
• Recent chemical peel, laser treatment or sunburn
• Current oral isotretinoin use, or recent use - your practitioner will advise the appropriate interval
• A history of keloid scarring
• Very sensitive or thin skin

Any mole, raised lesion or skin change in the treatment area should be assessed before treatment and worked around, not over. See mole removal and skin checks.

Aftercare

• Sun protection is essential. Freshly exfoliated skin is more vulnerable to ultraviolet damage. Use daily broad-spectrum sunscreen and avoid direct sun for several days.
• Avoid retinoids, acids and strong actives for a few days unless advised otherwise.
• Avoid other exfoliating treatments, waxing and hot environments such as saunas and spas for a few days.
• Keep the skin hydrated with a gentle moisturiser.
• Makeup can usually be applied the same day, though many people prefer to leave the skin bare initially.

How often

Because the treatment removes only the outermost dead cell layer, it is generally repeated at intervals of around four weeks - roughly the time the skin takes to renew that layer. Treating more frequently than the skin can regenerate risks irritation and barrier damage.

Combining with other treatments

Epidermal levelling is often performed before a facial, peel or hydrating treatment, so that products applied afterwards penetrate more effectively. Where it is combined with a chemical peel, the peel acts more strongly on freshly levelled skin - the strength is adjusted accordingly, and this should only be done by someone who accounts for that.

Risks and side effects

• Redness and temporary sensitivity
• Dryness and tightness
• Irritation, particularly if actives are applied too soon afterwards
• Nicks, scratches or abrasions from the blade
• Breakouts, particularly where the skin is acne-prone
• Infection, including reactivation of cold sores
• Changes in pigmentation, particularly with sun exposure afterwards or in darker skin types
• Scarring - uncommon, but possible where skin is nicked or where someone is prone to keloid scarring
• Worsening of active acne, eczema or rosacea

Please read our information on the risks and complications of cosmetic surgery before proceeding.

Cost and booking

Cost is quoted at consultation. As at September 2024 and including GST, a skin assessment with a nurse or aesthetician is $50 and is redeemable on products or services. Dermal skin treatments start from $130.

Me Clinic is at 4 Burke Road, Malvern East VIC 3145, five minutes' walk from Caulfield station. Clinic hours are Monday, Wednesday and Friday 9am to 5pm, Tuesday and Thursday 9am to 7pm, and Saturday 9am to 2pm. Phone 1300 852 050.

Related pages

See facial hair removal, skin rejuvenation and treatments, laser hair removal, or all face procedures.

Individual results may vary. Any surgical or invasive procedure carries risks. Before proceeding you should seek a second opinion from an appropriately qualified health practitioner.