Marrakech: a destination guide for points travellers

Marrakech is a city of contradictions and it does not apologise for any of them. Spice souks and stables share the same alleyways. A 12th-century mosque looks down on a square where snake charmers set up after the taxis are banned for the day. It delights and exhausts in roughly equal measure, and it is one of the more rewarding places an Australian can reach on points.

Founded in 1070, the city sits in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, about half an hour's flight south of Casablanca. Its centre is the historic medina, ringed by fortified walls dating from the 12th century. Marrakech is built on and surrounded by arid desert — it is known locally as the door to the Sahara — and enjoys sunshine for most of the year. Morocco is a Muslim country and Islam informs daily life in ways visitors notice quickly, from the call to prayer to the limited availability of alcohol.

Getting there on points

The routing described here is Melbourne–Doha–Casablanca–Marrakech in Business Class the whole way, combining Qatar Airways and Royal Air Maroc, booked as a single Qantas Classic Reward.

The return figure is the more interesting number: because the points cost is capped at the price of a oneworld round-the-world reward, flying return costs materially less than twice the one-way. Fees and taxes are payable in addition and are not trivial on this routing.

One caveat on availability. Qatar Airways premium cabin reward seats have not always been bookable through the Qantas site; at times only Economy rewards have been visible there. Qatar Business Class can also be booked using Velocity Points, Qatar Airways Privilege Club Avios, British Airways Avios, American Airlines AAdvantage and Cathay Pacific Asia Miles, so if the seats are not showing in one programme it is worth checking the others.

Getting around

Marrakeshi walk, and so will you. Cars are broadly excluded from the historic medina, which leaves feet, bicycles, motorbikes, horse-drawn carriages and mule carts. The alleyways are narrow, dusty and busy; proper walking shoes are not optional.

Outside the walls, where cars are permitted, walking is still the default. Be aware that local estimates of walking time can be optimistic — a distance described as ten or fifteen minutes may in practice be a brisk half-hour. If you cannot walk far, or want air conditioning between destinations, consider staying outside the walled city. The trade-off is real, though: the medina is where the city actually reveals itself.

Arriving is its own introduction. Taxis often cannot reach medina addresses, so you may be set down at an intersection and a porter with a wheelbarrow will take your luggage the rest of the way.

What to see

Jemaa el-Fnaa. The main square dates from the 11th century and changes character through the day. Mornings bring pedestrians, orange juice stalls and a few taxis navigating without lanes or traffic lights. After 2pm cars are banned and the magicians, snake charmers and dancers take over. Before sunset the food stalls appear, selling everything from fried fish to snail soup. Visitors are commonly advised to be cautious with square street food until their stomachs adjust. For a ground-level view, the terrace at Cafe de France works well — sit in the second row of seats to avoid being approached. For sunset from above, the upstairs terrace at Grand Cafe Balcon has the best angle; you will need to buy a drink to get in.

The souks. Marrakech is one of the world's great shopping cities and the souks are a genuine warren. A guided tour of a few hours is worth it twice over: it steers you towards real artisan workshops rather than imported knock-offs, and it stops you getting lost. Expect goat skin bags, handmade slippers, kilim rugs, hand-painted ceramics, spices including ras el hanout, and hand-poured brass work — lamps, bowls, sconces and serving dishes.

Haggling is expected and structured. The first number written down is a first price, not a price. Staying good-humoured and continuing to negotiate is the norm, and the final figure can be well under half the opening one. Keep a currency conversion app open so you always know what is actually being asked.

Jardin Majorelle and the YSL Museum. Jacques Majorelle established the garden in 1923; it is Morocco's most visited attraction, drawing around 900,000 people a year. The cactus garden is striking, but the villa itself — painted in vivid yellow and Majorelle Blue — is what stays with you. Inside, Pierre Bergé created a museum of Berber culture; the jewellery room, mirrored wall to wall, is the highlight.

The Yves Saint Laurent Museum opened next door in 2017. A single darkened room holds 50 haute couture ensembles, including the Mondrian dress and Le Smoking, rotated every ten months to protect them. A practical tip: either buy tickets online more than 24 hours ahead, or buy a combined garden-and-museum ticket at the YSL Museum and visit it first. Either approach can save up to an hour queuing at the garden.

Bahia Palace. Built in the 19th century by Si Moussa, a former slave who became an aide to Sultan Hassan I, the palace became a royal residence in 1956 when Morocco gained independence from France. Two acres of cool gardens and elaborate interiors; a guide adds a great deal of context you would otherwise walk past.

Koutoubia Mosque. Built in the 12th century and the oldest mosque in Africa, Koutoubia stands 77 metres tall and is visible from most of the medina. Recorded announcements are banned inside the historic medina, so the chief Imam ascends the ramp to the minaret — by donkey-drawn cart — to call the city to prayer five times a day. There is a mosque in each of Marrakech's 320 quarters. Non-Muslims cannot enter Koutoubia, but the exterior is worth circling; the limestone and red earth construction glows at the right hour.

A hammam. Every neighbourhood has a public hammam, but these are for locals. What visitors want is a private hammam, and your riad or hotel will recommend one. Expect a hot steam room, an optional and vigorous black clay scrub, and often massages or a rose-scented milk bath. Prices are generally modest outside the grand hotels. Book and pay in advance.

Where to stay

For an authentic stay, choose a riad inside the medina — a traditional house built around an internal courtyard. Accept that there will be no car access and that the entrance is likely down a narrow, unmarked alley.

Riad Itrane sits a two-minute walk from Jemaa el-Fnaa and has a pool and a rooftop garden. The service extends well beyond the room: airport transfers, drivers, evening escorts on request, and home-cooked dinners arranged in advance. Breakfast by the pool is included, with fresh orange juice, pastries, homemade cake and jams.

At the other end of the market, the Royal Mansour is the most expensive hotel in the city, more so than La Mamounia. If staying is out of reach, its four bars are not — the Fireplace Lounge sits opposite the Main Bar and has live music. Dressing for it is part of the experience.

Eating and drinking

Moroccan cooking is built on spice, fresh vegetables and slow-cooked meat, and most Moroccans rarely eat out, which means some of the best food is domestic. If your riad offers dinner, book it — typically a multi-course meal made from produce bought that morning. Moroccan salad plates are exceptional.

Two things to know. Service is leisurely and portions are large, so only order multiple courses if you have hours to spare. And leaving food will be read as dissatisfaction no matter how much you protest, which can produce some awkward, generous responses from your hosts.

Alcohol is not universally available, as most locals do not drink. Mint tea, poured from height from a curved-spout silver pot, is the social ritual that matters. Nightlife exists but is not extensive.

For a special meal, La Grande Table Marocaine at the Royal Mansour has been voted the best restaurant in Morocco in the World's 50 Best awards. It was opened in 2008 by three-Michelin-star chef Yannick Alleno, who reworks Moroccan classics rather than simply reproducing them. The pigeon pastilla — filo so fine it shatters, dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon — and the sea bream tangia with black olives and Moroccan herbs are both worth ordering.

Grande Cafe de la Poste, outside the medina walls and therefore reachable by car, has colonial-era interiors and a French-leaning menu with Moroccan specials. The palm-shaded terrace is the place to sit at lunch, and the wine list covers both Moroccan and French bottles.

Frequently asked questions

How do I get from Australia to Marrakech on points? One workable routing is Melbourne–Doha–Casablanca–Marrakech in Business Class, combining Qatar Airways and Royal Air Maroc on a single Qantas Classic Reward.

How many Qantas Points does it cost? The one-way Business Class redemption was 180,000 Qantas Points. Return was 318,000 points, because the points price is capped at the oneworld round-the-world reward level. Fees and taxes apply on top.

What if Qatar Business Class reward seats are not showing on the Qantas site? Qatar premium reward availability through Qantas has varied over time. The same seats can often be booked using Velocity Points, Qatar Airways Privilege Club Avios, British Airways Avios, American Airlines AAdvantage or Cathay Pacific Asia Miles.

Should I stay inside the medina? Staying in a riad inside the medina gives the most authentic experience, but there is no car access and luggage is carried in on foot or by barrow. If mobility or air-conditioned transport matters, stay outside the walls.

Is haggling expected in the souks? Yes, and the opening figure is understood by both sides to be a starting point. Negotiating in good humour is normal and the final price is frequently far below the first one quoted.

How can I avoid the queue at Jardin Majorelle? Buy your ticket online more than 24 hours in advance, or buy a combined garden and museum ticket at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum and visit the museum first.

This information is general in nature. It does not take your personal circumstances into account.